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For the international women’s day, Riccardo Tisci delivered not only an admirable collection but a real statement for the women all over the world who are constantly seeking the best place for them in this society. Mexico is perhaps one of the most segregative country regarding women’s rights and success. But it’s also a place where traditions are being highly honored and respected while questioned. Tradition, modernity, women of power, Mexico? Aren’t these terms supposed to work together today in 2015? It seems Riccardo is trying to resolve a politically-social matter through a very couture collection. Haute Couture has always been in the veins of this Maison and Riccardo has once again played with its codes and craftsmanship.
Tonight, he introduced us to his ideal tribal-chic woman. She is still venerating the ancient and mysterious aspects of her culture through the face-jewels and earrings. But, she’s taking herself aside from the crowd by adopting a super modern feminine silhouette. She’s becoming a goddess herself. She’s wearing a lot of black which is enhancing her natural dramatic aura. Here, a suit which is perfectly tailored and showing a delicate gothic XVIIthCentury kind of pattern. Mix of cultures, of times, of inspirations. This is the key to success according to Riccardo Tisci. He’s indeed adding these touches that I trusted to be seen at Vermeer’s period to a special South American flowering print for instance. There, a super fatale velvet dress, moving like waves of rubies. And this woman knows fashion, she could be a designer as well as a computer engineer. She’s taking the decisions, commanding others, she’s a boss woman. And the corset shows her strong determination to power, structuring her look, giving it this special touch nobody ever dared to. Tough but delicate too. It’s one of he numerous antithesis. Because she can add a touch of fluffiness or wearing some suit applied with feathers while keeping her strong positions and wearing under it some printed leather top. As I said, she didn’t forget where she comes from and is even proud of it. She’s showing the eye pattern (that was so dear to Kenzo, but here more subtle, more discreet) which is protecting her, and Riccardo is delicately introducing some peacock print. The deep red is also one of the many themes of the collection, showed in different palettes, mixing itself with black, creating an intimidating ensemble.
Tailcoats are another part of this memorable collection. Some are glittering for an evening wear, others are carefully modeled, giving all its presence to the woman. Ironic isn’t it? Women dressing in men’s closet. This is all what the international women’s day is about, shaking up preconceived ideas and challenging mentalities.
How amazed were we when the last looks walked in front of us, sparkling like never before, astonishing us by their stunning elegance and glamour. Red carpet intended, ready for applauses, sublimating fame in its purest form.