Two weeks ago ended what we call in our own jargon the “fashion month”. For this Fall-Winter 2015 season, it all started by New York naturally on February 12 and ended up in Paris on March 11. What could possibly happen during 26 days of fashion shows, parties and private presentations? This is the fashion month as I lived it…
New York City, February 13, 2015 –
It’s fashion week time here and I’ve just checked in my hotel two days after the official launch of the fashion month. It is known here that the first days of presentations and fashion shows are not very worthy to attend and I authorized myself a private tour of the big apple, shopping included. Anyway it has been rumored that the one and only Lincoln Center and it’s iconic Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week pavilion will no more host NYFW, because the city council argued that it was too private… So I guess next season in September will be totally messed up, like all the shows taking place in all different places in the same time, and we’ll be much more in the rush than usually… #fashioneditorsproblems…
In any case, I was late at my first show of the season, Jason Wu, because stuck in the New York traffic… But that’s not a problem as everyone is always, like a tradition, late at show time.
One idea which is absolutely preconceived and not realistic is the general opinion according to which fashion week is all about glitters, glamour, and red carpet events. For us, editors, buyers, models, it is probably the most tiresome period of our whole year and yet the most exciting and boosting. This week I attended 46 shows, which means 11 hours of catwalk-watching, 23.000 words written, live Instagramming and hashtagging, 2 hours of glamorous party and 15 daily minutes to have lunch… #toughlife.
What about next fall trends from New York? Well it seems many designers want us to freshen up in a countryside environment, with tweed and color gradients covering earthy browns to light grays. Michael Kors, Jason Wu, Ralph Lauren, Tory Burch are designing for women spending their holidays in chic cottages from Connecticut. While Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler, BCBG MAXAZRIA or Victoria Beckham are focusing on the tailoring of their garments, showing original cuts, trying to predict who will be the 2015 woman. The week also featured one of the most awaited collections of this month. The newly appointed creative director of the house Oscar de la Renta, Peter Copping, was presenting his very first work to the fashion world. That was truly historic. Peter did well, and designed for the same classic, edgy, elegant woman than his illustrious predecessor. However, he added his own touches, in the graphic prints for instance which gave a 2015 modern twist to the classicism of the silhouettes.
Marc Jacobs surprised us too with his gloomy military march and psychotic collection, like if models were ghosts coming out at midnight to haunt an abandoned house. Death, suicide, blood, that was a frightening cocktail Marc Jacobs mastered as usually, with super structured, nearly couture looks. #epic #nyfwtheend
London, Great Britain, February 23, 2015 –
As many fashion editors, I willingly skipped LFW because we all know how uneditorial the collections here are and how few contributors and advertisers are present at this event. So, as a result, I only attended the Burberry show which has always been a great experience. I felt like I was a star when entering the big hall installed as usually in the middle of Hyde Park. Christopher Bailey seems definitely to be the only one designer in London able to present a fashionable, modern but still commercial collection…
Milan, Italy, February 25, 2015 –
As the fashion music composer Michel Gaubert (@michelgaubert) used to say on Instagram in his private jokes about the fashion industry, #itsmilanbaby !
Milan fashion week is certainly the most important week of the whole month including Paris. Milan is synonymous with the biggest fashion names, luxury behemoths, and Italian savoir-faire. Milan is one of the only Four where most of the advertisers are present and show their new collections. One of the many events awaited, was certainly the new Gucci collection, orchestrated by previous Frida Giannini assistant, Alessandro Michele. That was very interesting, he really kept all the codes of the brand and remodeled them in his own way, more modern but also more eccentric… It was kind of a #nudeshock.
At the exit of Gucci, I ran into my driver who drove me through the narrow streets of the old city and got me to Alberta Ferretti show venue. I was so moved by the collection, the Ferretti woman of this winter is a Russian girl walking through the snowy taiga, and she’s so delicate, like a porcelain doll… The red used in the collection was intense, like a sunset reaching its cap, like a fire in the middle of Siberia. #albertagavemeshivers
On Thursday, I attended the Fendi show which was definitely my favorite collection of this week, it was so perfect! I absolutely fell in love with the off-white silhouettes which were so amazingly tailored!
Milan has always been my favorite week of all the big Four, everything scents fashion in this city, we live, we breathe, we feel fashion and style anywhere in the town. My days were much more booked than in New York, I had so many shows, in fact every presentation was a must-see. It was crazily intense. Then I had one of these unforgettable lunches in probably one of the best pizzeria in town. #instafood
Some glasses of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo later, I had to leave my comfy sunny restaurant to a loud crowd of street style photographers and one-day celebrities. This is the #pradaphenomenom Fortunately when you passed the invitation barrier, you’re safe home. Has Miuccia finally reached a 2050 level of cuteness? I think she totally overpassed herself. This is the future. Our future. And it’s not some incoherent weird trying-to-be-avant-garde kind of fashion. It’s real. It’s concrete. It’s Prada.
On the evening, Jeremy Scott showed his Moschino collection. I was expecting for some Instagram-made event, like the Barbie one or the McDonalds one. Well, I was right… What I think is a really good thing, is that he creates several branches with several themes and inspirations within one collection. This is really diverse and still, all the mini-collections are tied together. This winter is all about street art, so we have the tag artist, and her own tags printed on the evening dresses. What I adore, it’s the super classic shapes which are always the basis for Scott’s work #moschinoreadytobear
On Friday, two shows stood out by their strong point of view. Giorgio Armani and Versace. The first was nearly minimalistic and in the other one we felt some high sexualized tension. Donatella designed for the woman she always believed in, a hot, powerful, sexy lady. Giorgio showed once again a breathtaking elegant collection. An everyday elegance, simple, edgy. I cannot describe every day in detail as it would be much too long and my editor would not agree, but I will just give you an advice: New York is for today, London is for never, Milan and Paris are forever.
Paris, France – March 5, 2015
Talking about PFW… Here I come, Paris, la capitale de la mode. Well, the first day of Paris fashion week is always a good time to discover the new talents. Even if the people whom you travel with, whom you work with, whom you actually live with for one month (for those, unlucky like me, who need to cover all the shows, all the four cities) tell you when you’re just over the French Alpes “it’s nearly over darling, calm down, in ten days, this hell where we live in is over”… Well let me tell these people that no, it’s far from being “over”. Fashion hell. Let me describe it. Because this truly is what we live when we’re in Paris, waiting to reach the end of the week to just lay down on a sofa at home, enjoying the simple fact of bullying. Hell is when you’re unbelievably tired, after not sleeping for nearly one full month, and having still not recovered from jet lag, you’re thrown away in a plane to Paris, where your deliverance is near. You land, your future driver for the week comes taking you from the airport to the hotel, you’re introduced to your suite at Le Bristol, with all the outfits your PR managed to get you, when your boss is calling you to check if you well understood he needs a 24/7 report of the week. Such a #toughlife #fashioneditorsproblems
In any case, hell or not, you must follow all the shows because as your photographer once told you “it’s just about loving your job. You like it, you rock it” well the truly motivating hashtag #ilovemyjob comes to your mind and it’s the moment when indeed you’re rebooted and ready to face clothes again.
Anyway after this slightly drama queen kind of depression, I am finally in my limousine, heading towards the Balmain show. Another super structured collection for powerful women only.
The average is 10 shows per day so I’ll just write down my favorite moments. How can I not mention the Brasserie Gabrielle, the splendid decor created by Karl Lagerfeld for his Chanel show in Grand Palais? There were some very surprising pieces like this parka fabric shaping bomber jackets or skirts. Margiela was also a premiere for Galliano who presented his first ready-to-wear collection. It was disappointing, it seems Galliano is totally neglecting the heritage of the house. I loved the Hermes show, it was also a premiere for Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski who kept on the very minimalist atmosphere. Simplicity, refinement, luxury. The fashion month ended for me at the Louis Vuitton show which took place in the amazing Fondation Vuitton, so futuristic I thought I was entering a Star Wars aircraft.
Finally the end of this fundamental month for the fashion industry, which has brought so much creativity and passion during 5 weeks of pure enchantment. Now, I can have some rest, and forget about clothes for two weeks, it’s a minimum.