This is the first show of its kind to be presented by Dior for its pre-fall collection. One show that competes with the usual Chanel Métiers D’Art show and based on the exact same notion of international fashion that is presented once or twice per year (with the cruise collection) in a different part of the globe, deeply tied with the stylistic History of the House.
This event was certainly one of the biggest events of the year for Dior, the show being organized right after the Esprit Dior exhibition that will be showcased all over the world. Tokyo and Dior, two different worlds that we could hardly believe could have had a link. Indeed, one of the many roots for the house of Dior is Japan. It all started officially in 1954 when Monsieur Dior organized the first fashion show ever held in Japan. This endless source of inspiration extended during the Galliano era and the Couture Spring Summer 2007 show or even the Spring Summer 2003 collection.
But today, Dior shows lost a bit of their drama and magic, with a focus on clothes more than on settings and atmosphere. The Esprit Dior Tokyo 2015 collection epitomized the inner spirit of the house of Dior. The silhouette “Bar” is here perfectly sculpted, renewed as usually by Raf Simons’ signature. The zip dress from cruise 2013, which has now become a “classic” in his collections, is transformed into a delicate fur coat. Trenches are the key pieces of the collection, very purely cut and their volumes are breathtaking! I love this oversized silhouette, super sophisticated. It’s the vision of a modern Japanese fashion blogger, wearing European influenced designs but still preserving her local traditions, that Raf introduces here. There is a huge effort made upon the beauty look, with the stunning makeup that made us think of Japanese geisha dolls. It seems that those winter kind of mountain spirit prints are one of the many trends for this Pre-Fall season. I loved the way Dior interpreted it this time with embroideries of silver wire.
My main disappointment lied on the lack of creativity Raf pointed out this time. There is no innovation there: he just took the idea of a dress-coat and brought it back on the front line, making it into different colors and shapes. Even if the overall result is a success – mainly thanks to the savior-faire of the ateliers – those mid-season shows are increasingly valuing the ready-to-wear and commercial aspect at the expense of creativity.