Chanel Pre-Fall 2015 Paris-Salzburg


Salzburg, the city of Sissi, of Tzara and Eluard, the city of Chanel. It thus has been natural for the Kaiser’s fashion House to present its PreFall 2015 collection there, where all of Coco’s friends found peace and rest. The setting: Schloss Leopoldskron, renown palace for the Austrian high society and dramatic scenery along its lake for a unique show in its kind.Till today, the House of Chanel is the only one to present a fashion show for its Pre-Fall collection, allowing international clientele and top fashion guests to attend this very private event. The collection in itself is extremely well embellished. An exceptional savoir-faire is there shown through the craftsmanship of each look. Here we have some super fine embroideries applied on a thin gauze, there some breathtaking work on feathers to create a ravishing skirt… Karl has been inspired by the traditional austrian costume, and reinterpreted it into a modern, sophisticated but wild woman. Wild, because influenced by the nature which is surrounding her, a whole fauna and flora that is surprising us by its delicacy and elegance. She’s an international client, relaxing in her chalet in St Moritz, Coco’s favorite ski resort. She’s walking through the woods during the day, adapting herself to the customs and weather of the region. Coats and dresses in cashmere are long and protect her from the cold, she even wears some earmuffs that seemed were made of out of hair. Karl is surprising us once again and with the broadcast of the REINCARNATION film, I was waiting for some super glamorous Sissi-like ball gowns and he presented very clean, and preppy kind of looks. The dirndl is revisited but not reinvented. Indeed, Karl is not really that inventive, the looks are more remodernized versions of an austrian tradition than really deeply Chanel influenced. It seems he’s restraining himself for the official shows of the season than really creating masterpieces of originality. Of course all the codes are here, mixing themselves, between the tweed suit, the camellia brooch and the very Chanel karlized silhouette. But something is missing, even though this a very luxurious ready-to-wear collection, Karl’s inventivity has had some better moments.  

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