Prada fall 2013 RTW

Ambiance Chaperon rouge et loup sauvage pour le défilé Prada de cet hiver. Le décor est imposant et nous plonge dans l’univers très original de la collection avec ces ombres mouvantes de loups, d’oiseaux et de femmes-nature. La femme se transforme en fille tout droit sortie des bois et forme parfois quelques ressemblances avec l’animal. Ainsi des fourrures sont récurrentes,  présentes sous forme de blousons, manteaux ou simplement aux revers des manches, d’ailleurs très larges. On a aussi le motif à carreaux comme une nappe pic-nic que l’on retrouve souvent dans le conte. Différentes coupes sont employées pour différents effets: d’abord, des coupes classiques pour cette histoire qui n’a pas d’âge avec donc des tailles marquées,  des longueurs au genou… et puis des coupes asymétriques  pour montrer la sauvagerie et l’allure naturelle et dépouillée de la femme des bois. Elle a donc les cheveux mouillés et porte des vêtements comme découpés, de bonne fortune. Les bretelles du décolleté descendent des épaules, des jeux de matières sont employés comme des brillants appliqués asymétriquement sur les jupes qui renforcent le look dévasté de la femme. Les couleurs employées sont très naturelles et nous font penser à la forêt avec du vert éblouissant comme le feuillage humide, du rouge automnal et des couleurs terres. On emploie de la laine, du cuir et des matières spéciales qui se dressent en opposition face à l’esprit traditionnel de la collection. Ainsi une robe argentée en tissu moiré est présentée. Une collection privée très bien menée avec néanmoins quelques silhouettes auxquelles je n’adhère pas totalement…

Ambiance Little Red Riding Hood and big bad wolf for the Prada show of this winter. Imposing setting immersing ourselves in a very original universe with those live shadows of wolves, birds and savage women. She’s transforming in a girl directly leaving from the hoods and presenting some common looks with the animal. Furs are everywhere, simply as perfectos or in straight coats and also in the large reverses of the sleeves. The squared pattern is declined in several colors just as the tablecloths that we often see in the story. Different shapes are employed for different uses: firstly, classic shapes for this classic tale with pronounced waists, dresses and skirts to the knees… and asymmetric shapes to show the savage and natural look of this woman from the wood. Therefore she has wet hair and wears clothes that seem cut. The neckline shows one soulder and plays of fabrics are used with glitters apploed in asymmetric way on the skirts and that reinforces her devasted look. Colors make me think of the forest, with a light green similar to the leaves, some autumnal red and groundy oranges or browns. We use wool, leather and special fabrics in opposition against the traditionnal ambiance of the show. In this way we see the silver dress in a watered fabric. A well done private collection but with some silhouettes that I do not really approve.

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