Ralph Lauren fall 2013

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Pour cet hiver, la femme Ralph Lauren se dresse en femme mystérieuse et dramatique. Entre Russie et marins du XIXème siècle, telle fut l’inspiration de la collection. D’abord des tenues de marins avec des couleurs comme du bleu marine, des marinières en pull, des lavalières aux cols et aux manches. On a donc des cabans, des pulls torsadés, des bottes au-dessus du genou et des pantalons fluides, de la laine mêlée à de la soie et du cashemire et enfin le clou de cette première partie que j’appellerais “femme de la mer” est la silhouette en blouson de mouton bouclé retourné à grand col. Et puis le lien avec la deuxième atmosphère du défilé, toute aussi similaire, est déjà réalisé avec des jodhpurs portés sur des bottines montant aux chevilles. Et donc la deuxième partie du défilé s’intitulerait d’après moi “l’officière” avec des cordelettes et des épaulettes, des lignes strictes mais féminines, des écussons un peu partout… Et puis donc après “l’officière”, on découvre une nouvelle femme qui porte plus de robes. Elles sont pour une grande partie en velours bordeaux, vert foncé ou bleu clair et des touches de romantisme ponctuent les silhouettes comme une fleur brodée en broche sur une robe longue. Une femme d’inspiration russe avec les grandes toques et étoles de fourrure. Des jupes qui ressemblent à des robes en volants de taffetas font penser à la mode du XIXème. Et puis après une nouvelle ère s’ouvre pour le défilé, une femme qui voyage, toujours d’inspiration de cette époque. De grande crinolines qui semblent légères sont déployées, portées pour de jour comme pour le soir. Ainsi une des silhouettes phares de la collection apparaît en boléro de plumes et robes couleur vert foncé. La dernière silhouette me fait penser à Anna Karénine, à la pointe de son élégance et ayant atteint la perfection. Une cape en mouton retourné portée sur une robe féerique, en tulle rebrodée de cristaux et tout accordé en couleur champagne. Une chute merveilleuse pour une collection privée des plus spectaculaires de beauté. Tout simplement le style si unique de Ralph Lauren!

This winter, the Ralph Lauren woman is mysterious and dramatic. Between Russia and sailors of the XIXth Century, that was the inspiration of the show. Firstly, navy looks with navy blue, smocks and lavalieres to the collars and the sleeves. Therefore we see some reefer jackets, twisted sweaters, boots under the knees and fluid pants, wool mixed with silk and cashemire, and finally the top of this fist part that I would call “Navy woman”, a curly and shearling jacket with a high collar. And then the link with the second atmosphere is already made with jodhpurs wore on boots to the ankles. The second part would be called “The officer” with epaulets and military strings , strict but feminine lines and coat-of-arms everywhere… After that, we discover a new woman, wearing more dresses. They are for a major part in velvet, bordeaux, green or blue and romantic touches are applied just as the flower embroided on the long dress. A russian woman with fur on hats and scarves. Skirts look like dresses and ruffles in taffeta let us think about the XIXth Century fashion. Then a new era comes where the woman is a traveler. Great crinolines appear, wore the day as on the evening. The emblematic silhouettes of the show are presented just as the one with the feather bolero and dress in a forest green. The last silhouette make me think about Anna Karenina, the top of the elegance and reaching the perfection. A shearling capelet on a beaded tulle evening dress accorded in the same color: champagne color. An amazing final for the most beautiful and spectacular private collection. Well, simply the Ralph Lauren style!

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