Dolce & Gabbana fall 2013 RTW

Dolce Gabbana fall 2013

Une collection sublime a été présentée pour l’hiver chez Dolce & Gabbana. Le thème de la collection tournait autour des vitraux et des mosaïques que l’on trouve dans les églises italiennes au style chargé. Ainsi l’on assiste à de véritables imitations des carreaux de mosaïque qui l’un après l’autre finissent par former une image de saint, d’ange et d’icônes religieuses. Différentes époques comme différentes femmes sont alors abordées. D’abord la flamboyante et riche Eglise avec des couleurs vives comme du rouge sang ou du jaune un peu vieilli. Les robes sont en soie, parfois appliquées d’une fine guipure de dentelle aux cols ou aux poches. D’ailleurs, respect oblige dans ces lieux sacrés, pas de décolletés mais des cols ronds ni de longueurs très courtes, excepté pour certains looks assez rebels. Des incrustations de pierreries, strass et brillants donnent une allure merveilleusement chargée à la femme et avec les couronnes comme coiffure, on croirait voir une reine de quelque palais oublié. Puis après cette période de faste et de richesse, l’Eglise revient à la sobriété. On a donc une série de gris enthracites, très austères que les coiffures en grand chignon accentuent avec cette austérité et cette rigidité implacable. Les tailles sont hautes et ceintrées, les longueurs tombent sous le genou et les cols boutonnés jusqu’en haut. La chasteté est de mise. Après le gris, du noir et du blanc où sous les robes en dentelles fine transparentes, la femme garde les sous-vêtements, ce qui montre bien cet ancien conformisme italien revient à la mode. Enfin,  une période de fêtes arrive, avec du tissus lamé or voire bleu clair et toujours avec ces imprimés religieux. On observe beaucoup plus de pierres précieuses, beaucoup plus présentes et visibles. On croirait assister à une fête traditionnelle bourgeoise dans un village reculé de Toscane. Des chefs d’œuvres magnifiques  destinés à une collection couture mais finalement disponibles en prêt-à-porter, collection privée qui nous transporte dans les mœurs d’une Italie trop souvent ignorée.

A sublime collection has been presented this winter by Dolce & Gabbana. The theme of the show turned around strained-glass windows and mosaics that we find in italian churches, with this charged style. So we assist to real imitations of the mosaics’ tiles that one after one, are finally creating a saint picture, or an angel and icons. Different time periods and different women are evoked. Firstly, the glorious and rich Church, with joyful colors just as bloody red or old vintage yellow. Dresses are made in silk, sometimes applied with fine lace on collars or pockets. Therefore, in respect of sacred places, no neck lines but circle collars and no short lengths except for some rebel looks. Inlays of jewels, strass and glitters give an extraordinary look to the woman and with the crown, it seems we are watching a queen of some abandoned palace. Then after this period of richness and splendor, Church comes back to sobriety. We have a serie of greys, very austere. The hair accent this austerity and rigidity. Waists hare high and tighten, dresses fall to the knees and the collars are buttoned to the top. Chastity is everywhere. After greys, black and white where the woman keeps her underways under the transparent and fine lace dresses. That shows well that conformism can be refashioned nowadays. Finally, a festive period comes with lamed gold and blue fabrics and still with the religious patterns. We observe that therebare more and nore jewels than last time, more present and visible. We think we’re attending to a traditional party in a lost village in Toscane. Amazing couture pieces available in a ready-to-wear collection. Private collection that transports us in an Italia, too much ignored.

Here’s the full show!

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